Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
The Ngorongoro Highlands is a chain of ancient volcanoes that sit 7,500 feet above sea level. Some of those volcanoes formed calderas. A caldera happens when a volcano implodes upon itself- millions of years ago. It forms an alkaline lake from the ash. The Ngorongoro Crater is the largest caldera in the world and home to the highest concentration of wildlife on the planet. Because of the height above sea level, the Ngorongoro Highlands and the Crater are quite cold in winter (July). Cold enough to need fleece jackets and hot water bottles to warm the bed at night - even with a propane heater in the tent.
To get to the Ngorongoro Highlands from Tarangire National Park, we drove past the Great Rift Valley, the place where two tectonic plates didn't meet. The Great Rift Valley runs from Egypt to Mozambique. We arrived at Lion's Paw Camp as the sun was setting. This was such a magical scene as we wound our way way up the mountain. Since the Highlands are the Maasai Tribe's territory, Maasai warriors escorted me to my tent and served as camp guards. Pretty exciting. After a lovely dinner, it was an early night to rest up for the journey to Empakaai Lake the next day - Empakaai is a Maasai word that means deep. We drove along a range of volcanoes passing by Bomas, the mud homes of the Maasai people, and saw many Maasai men and women with their herds.
The Maasai are one of 144 tribes in Tanzania and are the only ones who have maintained their culture and pretty much live the way they have done for thousands of years. They are pastoralists- cattle, sheep and goats.
Anyway, back to the hike. So we get to Empakaai Crater, which is impressive, and Dennis, the park ranger, tells me that he and I will hike to the bottom and it’s 8 km (4.96 miles)down and 8 km up. I laughed and told him I wasn’t doing that. When I opted for this hike, I thought there would be a defined path on flat terrain. Boy, was I wrong. He said: “ Don’t worry Madam, I will help you.” Yeah, thanks, but no thanks. After much prodding, I agree to go a little way and then turn back and he agrees.
The foot path is single file through tall grass, rocks, etc. I quiz him about his experience with the AK47 semi-automatic he’s carrying, turns out he was in the army for 18 months for compulsory service. I feel better, but then he tells me that there is wildlife in the forest. Oh hell. As we continue down, taking a few pictures in the way, he points out Cape Buffalo droppings that are a day old. Cape Buffalo is the second most dangerous animal in Africa- hippos are the first. Days before, in Tarangire Park, David told me that if you see three or fewer, you need to find a tree and climb it quickly because Cape Buffalo are extremely dangerous when they are not in a herd.
There's no way a herd can be in this location. I continue to quiz Dennis about his skill with the gun. He reassures me that all is well- that the Cape Buffalo are no longer in the area. I have no choice but to take his word. I change the subject and ask about his tribe, his family, his plans for the future. During the conversation , he tells me that I'm the first Black American that he's met, then he says "Welcome home." That warmed my heart.
As we continue down the steep path, we pass a tree that is sacred to the Maasai and in spite of myself, I realize we are so close to the lake at this point that we might as well go down. We get there and and celebrate by taking some pics! Because Dennis is 26 yrs old, he's into taking selfies and is happy to take multiple photos. At one point, I look down and realize that the AK-47 is resting right next to me. I'm glad it's there.
I notice a herd of cattle grazing a few hundred yards away. Dennis tells me that conservation area is the only place where cosmetic animals, people and wildlife live in proximity to each other. I didn't see any Maasai people, David says they are hiding because he's there and technically they are not supposed to have cattle at the lake. He tells me that Ngorongoro means cowbells - actually the sound cowbells make as the animals walk. I listen and I hear it. Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro.
I was feeling quite proud of myself when Dennis says it's time to go back up. He sees the smile vanish from my face and says, “Madam, I will help you, don’t worry.” Let’s just say I have no pictures of the trip back up.
After an arduous climb to the top, we meet up with David and have a picnic lunch. I was so grateful to Dennis for getting me back to the top that I shared my lunch with him. While we were eating I noticed two women taking a nap in the clearing - they were supposed to do the same hike, but once they saw how steep the terrain was, they opted out and chose to relax. Hmm, why hadn't I thought of that?
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